A long weekend in Montreal
The best food and activities in Canada’s most European city.
The French do it better. Better food, better cocktails, better atmo. Just better. One of my favourite cities is Montreal. Culturally diverse. Canada, but with a European feel and some French flair. French is at the core for sure, but come as an English speaker and you’ll be welcomed immediately (maybe with one or 2 side eyes).
The French are very fun. But the Quebs have another type je ne sais quoi. Fringlish is built into their vocabulary. As a native English speaker you may be equally as confused on what they’re saying as a French European. It’s truly a unique and fascinating language that you both love or hate. Watch têtes a claques to get a feel for what you’re in for.
Jokes aside, Montreal is a beautiful and fun city. The ideal destination for a long weekend with friends, family, significant others or even solo. This post will cover the ideal long weekend in the summer and or fall. We don’t want those sub -20C (-4F) days getting in the way of your perfect weekend. We’ll be exploring neighbourhoods, activities, restaurants, cafes, bars and more.
We are manifesting good weather all weekend. expecting temperatures between 16C (61F) and 28C (82F). Assume that all flights/trains/cars arrive on time and your trips to and from the airport/train/airbnb are seamless. A quick PSA before we begin: if you’re not a walker, this itinerary is not for you. Please expect 25-40k steps a day with dancing. You have been warned.
Thursday - a chill intro
You’ll arrive in the evening on Thursday. Check into your airbnb in the Plateau and head to Vivace for dinner. This gem sits 15 people and is run by the sweetest woman who makes everything from scratch every week. This is genuine farm to table and such a unique experience. After the most wholesome dinner you’ve ever had out (with fabulous wine ofc), you’ll head to Le Darling for un petit nightcap (glass of wine preferable). It’s usually pretty busy but such a chill and fun vibe. Maybe you’ll meet some locals but we’re taking it easy tonight. After un petit verre, head back home for a good night’s rest.
Friday - Plateau and Mile End focus
Friday we’re fresh. We slept our full 8h. We’re ready to explore the city. Before your friends wake up, you sneak out for 3 croissants at each, Mamie Clafoutis, Hof Kelsten and Le Saint Louis café. You also go to Paquebot for your morning coffee.
The following is optional, but recommended - go for a run up Mount Royal. Get your blood flowing and get energized for the weekend. Hitting the hill before the weekend means fewer people to weave through, so if you’re going to run, run today. Alternatively, we can take a chill walk up the mountain.
Fresh off our run (or hot girl walk), we get back, shower and are ready for brunch. We’re headed to La Fabrique for our 1pm brunch. Stuffed after a filling and flavourful brunch, you head out for a walk around the Plateau and Mile End. This afternoon is Sunny and 25C. You’re in shorts and a crop or baggy T. Life is good.
30k steps later, your parched. You hit Siboire patio for a 4pm beer in the sun. Nothing tastes better after a day spent walking arounf in the sun (don’t forget your SPF!). After a few beers, you head back to take a break before getting ready and going out for the night.
If you’re with your girlfriends, you know that getting ready is debatably the best part of the night. We’ve got wine, sourced from the local dep or SAQ. Clothes are being shared. Hair is being curled. Makeup is being applied. The room is a mess and you’re blasting Shania Twain in preparation for the night ahead.
By 9:15pm 2 bottles of wine are empty and you hop in the uber to your 9:30 dinner reso at Sans Soleil Bar. This turns into a techno club later. You’ll have your girls night and slowly make your way to the dance flow for the rest of the evening. They’re playing vinyl. The dance floor is packed. Cocktails are actually good and affordable, esp if you’re visiting from nyc. Enjoy the night.
Saturday
After a good sleep, you’re rallying. You must see the rest of the city. You head to St-Viateur for a montreal-style bagel, followed by a short walk to Café Olimpico for your morning (high quality) motor oil (and beignet). In need of a second coffee, we head over to Café Humble Lion for another caffeine hit.
Today we’re walking around downtown and Old Port. Shop around, hit the Old Port, enjoy a few outdoor markets and cute shops along the cobblestone streets. When you feel like your legs are about to fall off, take the metro up to Drogheria Fine to stand in line for $5 gnocchi. Because you’ve barely eaten, you will destroy the gnocchi and head down the block to get the most unique and divine kouign amann of your life at Kouign Amann Bakery (original, ik). You are now on cloud 9 and head back to the airbnb to rest and get ready before the night out.
When the night hits, plan for a speakeasy crawl taking you from downtown, back to the plateau. But first is dinner at Le Vin Papillon. This is a fabulous rustic-chic New American Restaurant with some Spanish flare. Incredible sharables all-round and some of the best wine I’ve had in my life (I’ve had a lot of wine in my life). Next, head to Milky Way Cocktail Bar. You’ll stand in line for a bit but the wait it’s worth it. Take an uber downtown to The Cloakroom Bar. This not-so-hidden gem is home to fantastic cocktails, adjacent to a barbershop. Tell them what you like and let them create a unique cocktail to your liking. No menu.
Gokudo is the last stop on our 3 part series, for some Japanese-inspired cocktails. Feel free to add more as you see fit. If we get home by 1am, I’d call that a fun yet responsible evening.
Sunday
We will have a relaxing Sunday starting with brunch at Le Vieux St. Laurent - a classic French brunch that is so filling and affordable you’ll be coming back in no time. Afterwards we’re heading to the Atwater market. Wander the market and get a few nibbles. Head to the water with a book and catch some sunshine in the afternoon. If you’re feeling adventurous, head to Griffintown to La Bête à Pain for one of my fav croissant’s in the city.
This evening we’re hitting Bota Bota spa on the water before dinner. Make your 5pm reso for the spa well ahead of time. This allows for enough time to relax and get ready before your 9pm dinner at Le Serpent.
Monday
For our last morning in the city, prends un petit café, and a croissant in the plateau. You must get coffee and chocolatine at Café Nocturne. Afterwards, wander down to Griffintown to Shay for a late brunch before heading to the airport/home.
I know this sounds packed. And I mean that’s cause it is. If you’ve travelled with me, you know we’re hitting 20-50k steps/day. You will be GASSED by the end of the long weekend but it will be well worth it.
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xx -ali <3